By Jeff Sovelove
All the latest fashion styles were on display Sunday at the Frelinghuysen Arboretum.
From the Civil War.
Models wore outfits spanning different stages of the war. Re-enactors played prominent Abolitionists, washer women, a Marine, and a Zouave from the 114th Pennsylvania Zouaves.
The exhibition began with Abby, our guide, dressed in a separate blouse and skirt, which became popular due to a shortage of matching fabric, especially in the South.
While there was plenty of cotton, the facilities to produce cloth were mainly in the North. So war cotton had to be shipped to England and shipped back as cloth. Abby’s top also showed the influence of military uniforms.
Slideshow photos by Jeff Sovelove. Hover / click on images for captions:
Next, we were introduced to Linda Sue and Randy, who were dressed as John and Mary Hunt, active Abolitionists. They lived in Happy Town, DE, and their son eventually became governor of the state.
Then we met Russ, who was dressed as a Marine, complete with cartridge belt and bayonet. Marines mainly saw service on ships on blockade duty, and they fought in the battle of Fort Sumter to open the war.
Mary Beth and Madeline were dressed as laundresses. When the troops went off to war most of them were 15-20 years old and didn’t know how to cook or clean for themselves, so the government hired washer women to help with those skills.
We then met two ladies of the Sanitary Commission, Linda and Erin, as well as Michelle, a nurse with her medical kit.
The nurses wore white aprons since they could be cleaned more frequently in lye soap. Of the 622,000 killed in the Civil War, about two-thirds died from disease or poor sanitation.
The Sanitary Commission ventured into army camps to inspect and teach, as well as to buy food and rations with the money they regular raised through bazaars.
Mike, a color bearer, and Jeff, a member of the 114th Pennsylvania Zouaves, were there to represent the military. Zouaves were renowned for their skill and colorful uniforms, which had roots in Algeria in the 1840s.
Color bearers marched in the center of the line so the flag could be seen by the entire first line to keep pace. Even though color bearers were protected by six corporals, it wasn’t unusual for them to be killed in battle.
By the end of the war, an unknown number of women cut their hair and joined on both sides, posing as men. They only were found out if they were wounded or needed medical attention. If they were good soldiers, their commanders looked the other way and kept them in the army.
Most of them joined as “non-combatants,” in roles like fifers, as portrayed by our re-enactor Allison, or as drummers or support personnel.
Luisa was dressed as a spy — many of the best spies were women during the war. Men didn’t think they had the head for it, but one African-American spy remained in Jefferson Davis’ household throughout the conflict.
Death became an industry during the Civil War and Melanie was dressed in a typical mourning dress. Mourning was expected to last one year, after which ladies switched to a half-mourning dress. Many women remarried during the mourning period wearing their black dresses.
