Fire up the Grill! Barbecue tips from Morristown’s Chef Michel

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By Chef Michel Desjardins

Nothing epitomizes summer cooking more than grilling.  However, some folks are a little intimidated by it.  There are a number of variables to consider.  But have no fear.  Once you’ve learned a few basic principals you too can be the grill master of your next summer barbeque.  Like a maestro conducting his orchestra, your grill will take center stage in the fun.  So let’s get the party started.

There are a host of common questions when learning how to grill.  When do you apply the barbeque sauce?  Gas or charcoal?  Flip the food only once or frequently?  High heat or low heat?  Dry rubs or marinades?  Cover closed or open?  Let’s explore the different variables.

Barbeque sauce.

It is generally recommended to add it toward the end of cooking since it is high in sugar and can burn easily.  You have the option of marinating the food in the barbeque sauce beforehand but make sure to pat the food dry before grilling.  Then brush the food with fresh sauce near the end of cooking.

Gas or charcoal?

That depends on how ga-ga you are for that smoky charcoal flavor in your food.  Some people actually don’t like it, others won’t live without it.  Charcoal grills are less expensive but more troublesome to light and keep at a steady temperature.

So do you want that charcoal taste or do you prefer ease and better heat control?  If you have large parties with extended periods of cooking, I’d go with the gas.

To flip or not to flip?

Michel Desjardins, executive chef for Villa Enterprises
Michel Desjardins, executive chef for Villa Enterprises. Photo by Kevin Coughlin

Many people place their food on the grill and then immediately start moving it around and/or flip it frequently.  They think this will prevent sticking but actually they are encouraging it.

Just as in a sauté pan, high heat is what prevents sticking (in addition to oiling the sauté pan or grill beforehand).

High heat sears the outside of the food and creates intense flavor.  This is what grilling is all about.  The seared exterior also prevents sticking. Frequent flipping lowers the temperature of the food and prevents a proper sear.

To summarize, start with a clean grill, wipe the grill with oil, get it very hot, place the item on the grill, leave it alone, and flip it once half way through.

Heat level depends on the type of food and your objectives.  As stated, high heat (medium high to high) is necessary for searing the exterior of most grilled items.

However, a thick on-the-bone chicken breast will take some time.  Left on high heat, the exterior will look and taste like an ash tray by the time the center is cooked enough to prevent a salmonella outbreak.

Start it on high heat to sear it and then transfer it to the rack above the grill or turn the gas down for the remainder of the cooking.  When using charcoal, thin it out on one side of the grill to create a lower temperature zone.

Boneless and thinner foods are usually done by the time you’ve adequately seared each side and do not require being transferred to a cooler spot on the grill.

Wet marinades or dry rubs?

A marinade is a combination of liquids and/or spices while a dry rub is just that: A mixture of dry ingredients.  Marinades are popular for tougher cuts of meat such as London broil, flank steaks, skirt steaks, etc. Marinades, which usually contain some form of acid, will help tenderize the meat somewhat.  On naturally tender foods you can use either.

Red meat and chicken are best if marinated overnight but at least a few hours is desirable.  Fish are marinated for less time.  Its delicate meat will break down and turn to mush if marinated too long.   For dry rubs, apply the spice mixture and allow it to sit for at least 5-10 minutes.

The number, type, and ratio of ingredients for marinades and rubs are endless and largely depend on your taste preferences.  Typical marinade ingredients include various oils, vinegar, wine, citrus juices, honey, Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, and hot sauces, in combination with aromatics like onion, garlic or ginger, and herbs and spices.

Dry rubs can include any and all dried spices you can think of.  I like a combo of salt, pepper, paprika, cayenne pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, and thyme.

Now the cover issue.  The thing to keep in mind is that closing the lid increases the heat.  With the lid closed, your grill becomes a combo grill/convection oven.  The food cooks from contact with the grill as well as from the increased heat surrounding it.

For something like the aforementioned on-the-bone chicken breast, after searing it and placing it on the rack above the grill, close the lid to finish it as if in an oven. Foods that cook quickly do not necessitate closing the lid.

Tropical Roasted Salmon with Grilled Mango Kabobs

For the Salmon

Ingredients:

1/4 cup fresh pineapple juice

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

4 (6-ounce) salmon fillets

2 tablespoons honey

4 teaspoons chili powder

2 teaspoons grated lime zest

3/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Olive oil, as needed

Lime wedges (optional)

Preparation

Mix the pineapple and lime juice and pour over the salmon, turning to coat.  Refrigerate for at least one hour, turning occasionally

Remove the fish from the marinade and discard the marinade. Combine the honey, chili powder, lime zest, cumin, salt and cinnamon in a bowl, and then coat the fish with the mixture.

When ready to cook, preheat the grill to medium-high. Lightly oil the grill rack. Cook the fish until opaque, turning once during cooking, about 4 min per side.  Remove fish and serve with lime wedges.

For the Grilled Mango Kabobs

Ingredients:

4 tablespoons brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 ripe mangoes, cubed

vegetable oil, as needed

6 skewers, soaked in water

Mix the dry ingredients in a bowl. Dip the mango into the sugar mixture, coating every side.  Place the mango cubes on skewers and set on a well oiled grill. Cook until a slight caramelization begins to appear, about 2 minutes per side.  Remove and serve with the salmon.

Chef Michel Desjardins is an executive chef for Villa Enterprises Management and oversees menu development and culinary creation for its George & Martha’s American Grille in Morristown, NJ. Villa Enterprises owns several upscale restaurants in Northern New Jersey, including The Black Horse Inn & The Black Horse Pub in Mendham, along with more than 300 domestic and international restaurant franchise locations.

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